chocolateria san gines, madrid


My god, Madrid is so HOT in summer. Do as the Madrileños do, start early, collapse post lunch for a siesta and resuscitate in the cool evening air. As the hordes of (smart) tourists head towards the coast to chill (or more likely, bake) on the beach, Madrid is relatively tourist free. It’s a nice break from the neverending queues and even if there aren’t that many sights in Madrid to see, all that really matters is having a good time.

Good times (to me) in Madrid mean two things, 1. Jamon. 2. Churros.

(Jamon, is a post for another day.)

Churros – are the breakfast of champions/elderly spanish men/hungover clubbers (we’re champions of course). Contrary to belief, really good churros are quite hard to come by in the capital.


However, good things come to those who are keen to explore the slightly seedy alleyways of Madrid and Chocolateria San Gines is the best bet for the churros of your life, if you can find it, that is.

Nestled in an awkward corner, the 19th century cafe with the tiniest tables, where locals dot the marble bar and tourists (like us) fill the tables. Stiff faced waitresses already know what you want – chocolate con churros, por favore.

Huge spirals of churros are pumped out of the kitchen as fast as they can be and are quickly split with deft, asbestos fingers. Piping hot, golden churros arrive within seconds with a cup of chocolate. The churros’ crunchy ridges give a crispy outer coating which concedes to the softest, fluffiest center.



We dunk the churros into the dark chocolate. The chocolate is a super thick concoction – barely sweetened, the earthy aroma of the liquid can be fully appreciated when eaten with the churros. Drinking straight is not for the faint hearted – the mixture is viscous, almost bitter in larger quantities than a sip. Having churros with chocolate is like pairing the beauty and the beast.

Talking about beastly, if our appetite had allowed for it, we would have demanded a serve of the super sized churros. These churros we saw being whisked to knowing customers were as thick as a broom handle! If there was ever a reason to learn Spanish, it would be to order those mighty super sized churros!


Chocolateria San Gines
Pasadizo de San Ginés 11, Madrid, Spain
T: 91 365 65 46
Metro: Sol


That’s right, they’ve been serving churros since 1894!
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  1. Conor @ HoldtheBeef

    I’m such a chump with my porridge breakfast :( I want churros!

  2. mei

    Conor – You are a champion to eat porridge for brekkie… I have the shortest attention span when it comes to breakfast. I have never stuck out a whole box of cereal in my life and still hoping to find my holy grail of brekkies. Hoping it starts with c and ends with hurros. =P

  3. Hannah

    OOH OH! I went there last year when I was in Madrid. Best churros ever! We were so impressed by the waiters in their crisp white shirts carrying huge trays of churros through the chock a block crowd and down the stairs. Those thick churros are known as porras, if you want to order them next time your in Spain. Love your blog!

  4. mei

    Hannah – Ahhh PORRAS! Thanks so much! I can’t wait to go back, Madrid was a blast (not so much for my hips). Thanks for your comment, I really appreciate it. =)

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