the partisan – east perth
In Perth, we are really lucky to have access to the riverside and coastline for bbqs and picnics, because usually that’s the only way to get decent food with a view. I’m sure a lot of people have had the experience of ‘paying for the view’ – disappointing food, great scenery.
So it makes for a nice surprise to find somewhere the food lives up to the view. We ended up having a light lunch at The Partisan, as our intended destination – Toast – was absolutely packed and in comparison, the huge umbrellas and wooden tables of The Partisan looked rather inviting.
With no breakfast to steady our patience, we ordered our meals pretty quickly. Considering the menu had just changed from breakfast to lunch – and despite an assurance our food was coming (as if the wait was already too long) – our dishes came out very quickly. Or maybe it was just the nice view, I always think scenery warps perception of time.
Anyway, the food was marvellous. Simple italian fare. Mum had chorizo which was served with some of the best lentils I have ever had. The chorizo was juicy and redolent with paprika laced oil and was perfect with the meaty braised lentils. Even though it was a starter, it was a satisfying dish and proved quality definitely trumps quantity.
I had crumbed artichokes stuffed with feta cheese, served with polenta. The artichoke hearts were lightly braised with the feta being held in the ‘cup’ of the artichoke. Crunchy and soft with the creamy fatty smoothness of feta, the artichokes’ hearts and stems were tender. The sunshine yellow polenta was particularly good – fried to a crisp but creamy on the inside. Totally different from the polenta resembling rubber erasers, coming to you soon at weddings, functions and the like.
The market salad was good value – a spritely mix of baby leaves, croutons smeared with goats’ cheese and garnished with candied walnuts . The salad was a thoughtful combination and made me think of salads in Paris – wholesome, mixed and not thoroughly healthy, but make you feel good anyway.
With a nice view, decent, wholesome Mediterranean food, I hope The Partisan does well and survives it’s somewhat Bermuda Triangle spot. (No restaurant has been a permanent fixture in that location.)
At first I thought the portions were quite small but the quality justifies the price and moreover, they are not relying on the view to bring in customers. The service is individual and friendly, the decor is darkish and sophisticated. I daresay this maybe a good place to have a drink, nibble on a charcuterie plate and savour the view without pretentious nonsense.
I have to make a special note – the cheese selection seems to be very good value, so I’ll be back for that.
Shop 22, 60 Royal Street, East Perth WA 6004
T: (08) 9221 7404
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